Noodle Legs

Cities I've sprinted through to catch the last train/bus/magic carpet out of town:

Washington D.C.

New York City

Nara, Japan 

Paris 

Probably more I'm mentally blocking out 

And now, Seoul. 

Pictures from an amazing weekend vacation to come soon...

Chuncheon's Dak Galbi Street

Got seven hours to kill? Do you like spicy chicken and vegetables? Beautiful mountains? Your butt falling asleep on a surprisingly hard subway seat despite the paisley cushion?

Then it's time for you to head to Chuncheon!

Two hours of this, and the occasional pitch black tunnel.

Over the holiday, my friends and I had a stay-cation and hoofed it north of Seoul for the day to get delicious dakgalbi. The journey began by making our way to Seoul's Gyeongchun line, to the southernmost stop of Sangbong. While the Gyeongchun line looks pretty stubby compared to other lines, don't be fooled--the time between stops is double or triple what it is in the center of Seoul, so you're on the train for quite a bit to get to the last stop up north.

Luckily, the ride to Chuncheon is gorgeous. In just several stops, you suddenly find yourself in lush, green mountains dotted with lakes, streams, and--since we're still in Korea--the occasional apartment building. 

Once you get to Chuncheon, it's time to walk to the famous Dakgalbi Street. (Or you can take a taxi there for under 5,000 won. If you tell the driver 'dakgalbi', 99% of the time they'll take you right to the street.)

Just look for the happy chickens.

I question their pleasure; don't they know we're going to eat their brethren?

Or perhaps they are just happy they're not the ones being eaten?

These are life's questions...

All of the restaurants have women outside trying to wave you in. (Not 'women' like at Vegas casinos, I mean 'women' like your Great Aunt Bess who asks when you're going to get married and why your hair looks the way it does.) Chances are, whichever restaurant has the longest line or fullest tables has the best dakgalbi.

If you've never had dakgalbi before, you're in for a treat. Order for however many people are in your party, though you could always order more later if you're still hungry. A pan is set in the center of your table and loaded up with chicken, spice, veggies, and rice cakes. Let the ladies do the cooking for you and they'll give you the okay when it's time to eat up. Afterwards, ask for some rice so you can make a stir fry with your leftovers (if there are any) and give your tastebuds a round two. Yes, you will fight over the last bits of rice. Just accept this inevitability.

Step 1: Sit down and DO NOT EAT THE RAW CHICKEN.

Step 2: Let the ajuuma cook for you and await her signal to eat, 

much the same as wolves wait for the alpha to signal it's their turn to feast on elk.

Yes, ajuumas are the alphas of the pack.

Step 3: When you are full to the point of bursting, 

order some rice to make galbi fried rice.

It took us three hours by bus and subway to reach Chuncheon from Suwon, but if you're feeling more pressed for time you can take the ITX train or look for an express bus. If you take just public transport, the whole roundtrip will set you back less than 10,000 won. The major downside of this journey is that you'll be spoiled for dakgalbi forever. After eating it in Chuncheon, dakgalbi in any other part of South Korea just doesn't cut it.

It's a straight shot from the station to the dakgalbi street. Just keep your back towards the river, go past some hardware stores, through a large intersection, and walk until you see the sign at the top of this blog post on your right. You'll also see a Cold Stone Creamery just before the sign.

Korean War Museum

Statues representing types of Korean soldiers, personnel and civilians

serving during and affected by the Korean War.

So far my favorite place in South Korea is the Korean War Museum in Seoul, so much so that I've gone more than once. (Ok, so I've only gone twice, but I'll pretty much jump at the chance to go with anyone who has never been there. Seriously, just hit me up.)

Tile mural at the Korean War Museum in Seoul.

The museum is one of the few I've ever been to that is dedicated to one historical event. With four exhibits to one complex war, you will find yourself learning many details about the Korean War that you had no idea about, especially if you only ever glossed over it in a high school unit about the 1950s. Did you know that Ethiopia and Colombia sent troops over? No? Well, you would if you had gone to the museum.

The international flags are positioned in the order that the

nations agreed to help South Korea during the war with troops

and/or medical personnel.

The museum closes promptly at 6PM, so if you get there late, go inside before you get distracted by all of the vehicles outside. Especially the tank that you can 'drive' for a few coins out of your pocket.

Ok, so you can like only go forwards and backwards, but still.

The museum, if you follow the exhibits in order, sets the scene for the war and leads you through the tense years before all hell broke loose, the battles, and the aftermath. The first two exhibits in rooms I and II reads a bit like an essay about how the war was a result of North Korean aggression. Dates and facts are presented in Korean, English, Chinese and Japanese using a variety of media and new interactive technology that makes you feel like you're in Star Trek. Room III pays tribute to the UN nations that entered the fray on South Korea's side, and is the room most packed with foreign visitors who linger over their nation's display. 

"Computer. I'd like to know how many Patton tanks were used in the war

and I'd like a cheese sandwich."

As with any conflict, the museum presents just one side of the story. Surely if you were in North Korea, there would be a very different narrative. For instance, one of the first statues you see when you enter the grounds is of a well-muscled South Korean soldier desperately clutching his younger, smaller North Korean brother. The visual representation isn't particularly hard to decipher. Also, the exhibits tend to give the impression to the uninformed foreign visitor that Singman Rhee, leader of South Korea at the time, is remembered as a father of the nation and all-around stand up guy, when many Koreans remember him, actually, not that fondly, like, maybe at all. I also failed to see anything said about what happened when the Han River Bridge was blown up by the South Korean forces, killing their own civilians and troops. Thankfully, we all know that war is messy business and know when to take information with a grain of salt. At the very least, the museum is a good primer on the Korean War and a gateway towards reading further about the subject if it intrigues you.

To get to the Korean War Museum, head to Seoul's Samgakji station on either the brown or light blue line. From exit 11, follow the signs--the museum is only a two minute walk and quite easy to find. Tours are available in English at certain times and there is no fee to enter.

Children's Day (어린이날)

May 5th is a holiday in Korea, specifically Children's Day. The day has been around for decades, and it was recognized as a holiday off from school in the '70s. (Not everyone gets the day off, especially if you work someplace parents would want to take their kids..!) Children's Day is also celebrated, off the top of my head, in Japan, China, and many other Asian countries. On the holiday, parents take kids to zoos, theme parks, mountains, beaches, and celebrate kids being kids. Before the actual date, schools put together fun activities, such as games, movies, and field trips. 

My school made yummy sponge cakes, which we got to decorate...

...and then we promptly threw up all of the icing we ate.