Got seven hours to kill? Do you like spicy chicken and vegetables? Beautiful mountains? Your butt falling asleep on a surprisingly hard subway seat despite the paisley cushion?
Then it's time for you to head to Chuncheon!
Two hours of this, and the occasional pitch black tunnel.
Over the holiday, my friends and I had a stay-cation and hoofed it north of Seoul for the day to get delicious dakgalbi. The journey began by making our way to Seoul's Gyeongchun line, to the southernmost stop of Sangbong. While the Gyeongchun line looks pretty stubby compared to other lines, don't be fooled--the time between stops is double or triple what it is in the center of Seoul, so you're on the train for quite a bit to get to the last stop up north.
Luckily, the ride to Chuncheon is gorgeous. In just several stops, you suddenly find yourself in lush, green mountains dotted with lakes, streams, and--since we're still in Korea--the occasional apartment building.
Once you get to Chuncheon, it's time to walk to the famous Dakgalbi Street. (Or you can take a taxi there for under 5,000 won. If you tell the driver 'dakgalbi', 99% of the time they'll take you right to the street.)
Just look for the happy chickens.
I question their pleasure; don't they know we're going to eat their brethren?
Or perhaps they are just happy they're not the ones being eaten?
These are life's questions...
All of the restaurants have women outside trying to wave you in. (Not 'women' like at Vegas casinos, I mean 'women' like your Great Aunt Bess who asks when you're going to get married and why your hair looks the way it does.) Chances are, whichever restaurant has the longest line or fullest tables has the best dakgalbi.
If you've never had dakgalbi before, you're in for a treat. Order for however many people are in your party, though you could always order more later if you're still hungry. A pan is set in the center of your table and loaded up with chicken, spice, veggies, and rice cakes. Let the ladies do the cooking for you and they'll give you the okay when it's time to eat up. Afterwards, ask for some rice so you can make a stir fry with your leftovers (if there are any) and give your tastebuds a round two. Yes, you will fight over the last bits of rice. Just accept this inevitability.
Step 1: Sit down and DO NOT EAT THE RAW CHICKEN.
Step 2: Let the ajuuma cook for you and await her signal to eat,
much the same as wolves wait for the alpha to signal it's their turn to feast on elk.
Yes, ajuumas are the alphas of the pack.
Step 3: When you are full to the point of bursting,
order some rice to make galbi fried rice.
It took us three hours by bus and subway to reach Chuncheon from Suwon, but if you're feeling more pressed for time you can take the ITX train or look for an express bus. If you take just public transport, the whole roundtrip will set you back less than 10,000 won. The major downside of this journey is that you'll be spoiled for dakgalbi forever. After eating it in Chuncheon, dakgalbi in any other part of South Korea just doesn't cut it.
It's a straight shot from the station to the dakgalbi street. Just keep your back towards the river, go past some hardware stores, through a large intersection, and walk until you see the sign at the top of this blog post on your right. You'll also see a Cold Stone Creamery just before the sign.
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