Friday, May 9, 2014

Korean War Museum



Statues representing types of Korean soldiers, personnel and civilians
serving during and affected by the Korean War.


So far my favorite place in South Korea is the Korean War Museum in Seoul, so much so that I've gone more than once. (Ok, so I've only gone twice, but I'll pretty much jump at the chance to go with anyone who has never been there. Seriously, just hit me up.)

Tile mural at the Korean War Museum in Seoul.

The museum is one of the few I've ever been to that is dedicated to one historical event. With four exhibits to one complex war, you will find yourself learning many details about the Korean War that you had no idea about, especially if you only ever glossed over it in a high school unit about the 1950s. Did you know that Ethiopia and Colombia sent troops over? No? Well, you would if you had gone to the museum.

The international flags are positioned in the order that the
nations agreed to help South Korea during the war with troops
and/or medical personnel.


The museum closes promptly at 6PM, so if you get there late, go inside before you get distracted by all of the vehicles outside. Especially the tank that you can 'drive' for a few coins out of your pocket.

Ok, so you can like only go forwards and backwards, but still.


The museum, if you follow the exhibits in order, sets the scene for the war and leads you through the tense years before all hell broke loose, the battles, and the aftermath. The first two exhibits in rooms I and II reads a bit like an essay about how the war was a result of North Korean aggression. Dates and facts are presented in Korean, English, Chinese and Japanese using a variety of media and new interactive technology that makes you feel like you're in Star Trek. Room III pays tribute to the UN nations that entered the fray on South Korea's side, and is the room most packed with foreign visitors who linger over their nation's display. 

"Computer. I'd like to know how many Patton tanks were used in the war
and I'd like a cheese sandwich."


As with any conflict, the museum presents just one side of the story. Surely if you were in North Korea, there would be a very different narrative. For instance, one of the first statues you see when you enter the grounds is of a well-muscled South Korean soldier desperately clutching his younger, smaller North Korean brother. The visual representation isn't particularly hard to decipher. Also, the exhibits tend to give the impression to the uninformed foreign visitor that Singman Rhee, leader of South Korea at the time, is remembered as a father of the nation and all-around stand up guy, when many Koreans remember him, actually, not that fondly, like, maybe at all. I also failed to see anything said about what happened when the Han River Bridge was blown up by the South Korean forces, killing their own civilians and troops. Thankfully, we all know that war is messy business and know when to take information with a grain of salt. At the very least, the museum is a good primer on the Korean War and a gateway towards reading further about the subject if it intrigues you.





To get to the Korean War Museum, head to Seoul's Samgakji station on either the brown or light blue line. From exit 11, follow the signs--the museum is only a two minute walk and quite easy to find. Tours are available in English at certain times and there is no fee to enter.

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